Reviews   ::        

Articles   ::        

Home   ::        

Links   ::        

Archives   ::        

Search   ::        

About Us   ::        
 
HDTV Costs     

HDTV Guide     

Diskeeper 9     

Stor n Go PRO     

Blade SSD Server     

 
     
 
 

 
  Lian-Li Stealth Modding Guide
 
 

The Details

Shown above is the first cut. You need a good metal saw and a lot of patience. Cut the side off of the blanking plate and file it until it is flush with the two other adjacent sides of the plate. Repeat this for all the blanking plates you intend to use. Make sure that the side of the blanking plate is free from burrs and does not spread outwards. You don't want the plate to get stuck when you want the drive to eject!

As you can see here, I have cut and filed both sides of the blanking plate. I have also used the original button from the drive itself. I found this an easier way to make sure that the button made contact with the eject component in the drive. On some drives, once you have removed the front plates there is no turning back. I had this situation myself. I had removed the front plate from this particular drive and a small piece of plastic fell out. I later came to realize that this plastic was a retaining clip for the front plate. It was safe to say that it did not go back on the drive. The point of no return had been reached and passed. After this, cutting another piece of plastic off of the eject button (seen near the center of this picture) was no problem. Talk about your voided warranty!

In order to place things properly inside the blanking plate, you need to mark out the position of important things. In my case I needed to know where the button should be placed and also where the draw of the drive bay would contact with the plate. I achieved this by placing the original front over the top of the blanking plate and using a mechanical pencil (with about two inch's of lead extended) to trace though the holes. This will serve people who want to keep things like the LED activity light or even the headphone hole accessible as all of these can be traced though the old front.

Unfortunately, due to poor photo quality above, you can't see the pencil lines that I have drawn on this plate. Basically they outline where the draw contacts the plate. Using this knowledge I affixed sticky foam pads (usually called prit tabs in England) to the three black squares marked on this picture. I chose this type of fixing as it was sturdy, but also allowed for the flexibility of being able to press the corner of the plate to activate the eject button. So even in DOS mode, you can still get CD's out of these drives. The eject button is fixed to the plate using a very strong, double-sided sticky tape.

I re-attached the front bezel on my PC and pressed the blanking plate into place. Having the front bezel attached and the drive still mounted in the bay gave me the chance to align the plate perfectly so that the drive did not scrape on the case during eject and insert.

Note: The sides of the Lian-Li blanking plates are slightly wider than a normal 5.25 inch drive bay to ensure a snug fit, if you really want your plate to slide in without scraping, then you will need to bend the sides in slightly.

Above is the final product with both of the drive bays closed. Which ones are the drives??

If you had guessed doors 2 and 4 you would've been correct!! Thus end's my first mod on my Lian-Li PC 60 USB. Part two will be my Window mod! Watch this space. [Ed. note: It's a shame to keep that purty case in a little cubbyhole like that.]

UPDATE: In answer to a number of questions we received, here is some additional information.

Paint: The paint was purchased for a mere £2 from a pokey hardware store in the middle of nowhere. I doubt seriously that it is available on an international scale. The paint is Plasti-Kote 109S Silver (written on the barcode on the cap). Sorry about the focus...this camera doesn't do well with closeups :-/

Dust: I have enlarged the image below to show that the blanking plate I mounted on the drive, when closed, fit's over the shroud of the drive sealing it completely. This stops dust and dirt from getting in more so than the original front plate as there are no holes in it. I admit that when the drive is open, it is exposed to a greater chance of getting dust in it, but the amount of time the drive spends open is so small I felt it wasn't worth the worry.

Time and money: This mod was completed with very little money. It cost £2 for the paint, £3 for sticky pads and double sided tape. If I had to buy the metal saw, that would have cost approx. £5. As for time? It took me about 3 days to think about how I was going to do the mod ;) Then one evening to do the whole mod.

Previous Page    
Table of Contents
Page 1: Introduction
Page 2: The Details

 
      Posted by: , April 13, 2002, 6:00 pm  

 
    Cool banner #1
 
 
       ::  USB News

       ::  Bjorn 3D

       ::  [H]ardOCP

       ::  BurnOutPC

       ::  I am Not a Geek

 
 
Top Products


Processors

AMD

Intel

More...


Cases

Antec

Enlight

More...


Motherboards

Abit

Asus

Tyan

More...


Sound Cards

Creative Labs

Hercules

More...


Graphic Cards

ATI

nVidia

More...


Hard Drives

IBM

Maxtor

Quantum

More...


 

 

 
2001 - 2004 Digital Silence
Digital Silence is not responsible for the information or the accuracy of the information above.
All trademarks and copyrights owned by their respective companies.

Graphical Design by Mohsin Ali
Website Layout by Universal Interactive

PHP Programming by Network Innovations
Additional HTML Programming by Moddin.Net